Veliko Tarnovo. Bulgaria’s Old Capital
I haven’t been to Veliko Tarnovo recently, but I still remember how much I loved it. I enjoyed it so much that, when my parents came to visit, I took them there on a road trip from Sofia to Burgas, and they loved it too.
Veliko Tarnovo is known as Bulgaria’s old capital. More specifically, it was the medieval capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire, and you can feel that history as you wander through the old town.
Set above the Yantra River, the city has a dramatic setting, with traditional houses perched on steep hillsides.
Things to see in Veliko Tarnovo
Tsarevets Fortress is the obvious place to start. This was the heart of the medieval capital, and you can walk through the remains of the fortress and palace before climbing up to the restored Patriarchal Church. The views over the city and surrounding hills are lovely, too.
We stayed overnight, which meant we could watch the Sound and Light show at Tsarevets. Seeing the fortress illuminated after dark, with the music and bells echoing across the hillside, was a memorable part of our visit. Check the schedule before you go, as the show doesn’t run every night.
Back in the old town, take a wander along Samovodska Charshia, the historic market street, and along Gurko Street, where the traditional houses seem to cling to the hillside. The Asenevtsi Monument, set beside the river, is another good place to pause and take in the scenery.
If you have more time, Arbanasi is a nearby village known for its historic houses and churches. It makes a good addition to a visit to Veliko Tarnovo.
How long should you stay?
You can see the main sights in a day, but I think Veliko Tarnovo is better with at least one night. That gives you time to explore without rushing and, if the dates line up, watch the Sound and Light show.
The town is hilly, and some streets are steep or cobbled, so comfortable shoes are a good idea.
Getting to Veliko Tarnovo
Veliko Tarnovo is about 220 km from Sofia and around 215 km from Burgas. By car, allow roughly three hours from either city, depending on traffic and road conditions. When I visited with my parents, it made a nice overnight stop on our road trip from Sofia to Burgas.
Buses connect Veliko Tarnovo with both cities. You can also travel by train, although the journey can take longer and may involve a connection. Check current timetables before you travel.
Is Veliko Tarnovo worth visiting?
Yes. It has history, beautiful views and a distinctive character that makes it feel different from Bulgaria’s bigger cities. I loved it when I first visited, and I was glad to share it with my parents on our road trip. It’s a place I’d happily return to.
